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MBM - 1959-64 Chevy Complete Stock Height Kit

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Price:
$525.00
SKU:
DBK5964-PB-MC-PVK
Brand:
Availability:
Direct Ship from MFG in 3-10 Days. Email sales@classicrods.com with questions.


Product Description

Full Size Chevy 1959-64 Complete Stock Height Kit Includes 11" Rotors, Loaded Large GM Calipers, Caliper Brackets, Hoses with Banjo Bolts, Vacuum Hose with Intake Manifold Fittings, Bearings, Seals, Dust Caps, Spindle Nuts, Spindle Washers, all Hardware, Cast Iron Master Cylinder, Brass Proportioning Valve Kit and a Power Brake Booster.

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Product Reviews

  1. Much safer to drive 4 Star Review

    Posted by on 20th Jul 2013

    I purchased this front disc conversion for my 61 Impala. The car became harder to stop as it and I have aged!
    I started with removal of the old drums and accessories. It was a fairly simple procedure having worked on brake systems before and having the right tools. Everything mounted up without issue following the instructions.
    Removal of the master cylinder and lines went well, but setting up the new system was a bit more challenging. My first problem was with the booster. When it was mounted, there was about an inch gap between the rubber boot and the hole in the firewall. After checking over the union between the booster and firewall, I decided I just needed an extension. That came in the form of a plumbing part. I had a 1 ¼” to 1 ½” rubber reducer used for PVC drain pipe that fit perfectly into the hole in the firewall and over the rubber boot of the booster. This solved the problem. I then temporarily mounted the proportioning valve to the booster to lay out the brake lines. DO NOT attempt to do this stage of the job without proper tubing benders. I had installed a dual mater many years ago, so my front lines had already been split. The new proportioning valve is set up for one or two lines for the front and a single for the rear. If you only use one front, a plug can be used to close off the other. I used both. I did need an adaptor for the rear line though. I had to search two parts stores to find one.
    The next step was to bench bleed the master cylinder. This is where I had a problem. It took nearly 30 minutes to get all the air out. 10 or 15 should be tops for this job. Once installed, I spent another 30 minutes or so bleeding the entire system. Finally I had what felt like a good pedal. On the test run I was pleased with the initial braking. That was until I wanted to really test it out. I got up to about 45 MPH and hit the brakes. I had a good, firm pedal about half way down, then nothing! All of sudden I could only stop the car with my foot to the floor. Not a happy camper. The next week was spent with emails to the distributor and the manufacturer. Both were very helpful and responsive. I soon had a new master cylinder which bench bled much easier. The test drive went well. On locking them up, I have a longer skid mark from the right front, but in normal braking I feel no pull. I can let go of the steering wheel and the car goes straight. My rear brakes needed adjusting up a bit to stop some of the nose dive, but other than that all seems to be fine. I took the car on a 150 mile “shake down” and I’m very pleased with the results. What a difference. With the increased traffic of inexperienced and reckless, (cell phone) drivers, I wanted a bit more defense on my side. I’ve had 35 years with this car and hope to have 35 more.
    I was concerned when I first looked at getting discs about not being able to use 14” wheels. I kept reading,” must use 15” rims” when converting to disc brakes. So naturally I tried finding a set of 15” wheels. Wheels and tires would be another $600-$1000 investment. As it turns out, the 14” Olds Cutlass wheels I had hidden under the stock hubcaps work fine.
    Thanks go to Larry at Classic Rods and Johnny from MBM for all their help.


  2. Safety Is The Issue 4 Star Review

    Posted by on 23rd Jun 2013

    I purchased this front disc conversion for my 61 Impala. The car became harder to stop as it and I have aged!
    I started with removal of the old drums and accessories. It was a fairly simple procedure having worked on brake systems before and having the right tools. Everything mounted up without issue following the instructions. Setting up the power booster part of the job was a bit different. Removing the master cylinder and lines went well, but setting up the new system was a bit more difficult. My first problem was with the booster. When it was mounted, there was about an inch gap between the rubber boot and the hole in the firewall. After checking over the union between the booster and firewall, I decided I just needed an extension. That came in the form of a plumbing part. I had a 1 ¼” to 1 ½” rubber reducer used for PVC drain pipe that fit perfectly into the hole in the firewall and over the rubber boot of the booster. Problem solved. I then temporarily mounted the proportioning valve to the booster to lay out the brake lines. DO NOT attempt to do this stage of the job without proper tubing benders. I had installed a dual mater many years ago, so my front lines had already been split. The new proportioning valve is set up for one or two lines for the front and a single for the rear. If you only use one front, a plug can be used to close off the other. I used both. I did need an adaptor for the rear line though. I had to search two parts stores to find one. Once that was done I moved on to the master cylinder. This needs to be bench bled. This is where I had a problem. It took nearly 30 minutes to get all the air out. 10 or 15 should be tops for this job. Once installed, I spent another 30 minute or so bleeding the entire system. Finally I had what felt like a good pedal. On the test run I was pleased with the initial braking. That was until I wanted to really test it out. I got up to about 45 MPH and hit the brakes. I had a good, firm pedal about half way down, then nothing! All of sudden I could only spot the car with my foot to the floor. Not a happy camper. The next week was spent with emails to the distributor and the manufacturer. Both were very helpful and responsive. I soon had a new master cylinder which bench bled much easier. The test drive went well. On locking them up, I have a longer skid mark from the right front, but in normal braking I feel no pull. I can let go of the steering wheel and the car goes straight. My rear brakes needed adjusting up a bit to stop some of the nose dive, but other than that all seems to be fine. I took the car on a 150 mile “shake down” and I’m very pleased with the results. What a difference. With the increase of traffic, inexperienced and reckless, (cell phone) drivers, I wanted a bit more defense on my side. I’ve had 35 years with this car and hope to have 35 more. Thanks MBM for making my car safer to drive.
    I would have given this a 5 star had it not been for the master cylinder problem. I was concerned when I first looked at getting discs about not being able to use 14” wheels. I kept reading,” must use 15” rims”. So naturally I tried finding a set of 5, 15” wheels. Wheels and tires was a another $600-$1000 investment. As it turns out, the 14” Olds Cutlass wheels I had hidden under the stock hubcaps work fine.
    Thanks to Larry at Classic Rods and Johnny from MBM.



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